Mandalay is Myanmar’s second-largest city and the former royal capital of the Burmese kingdom. The city is modernising rapidly, due to an influx of Chinese money and businessmen, and while facilities are improving the charm of old Mandalay is receding. A good place to start a visit here is to hike up the 780-feet high (240m) stairwell to the top of Mandalay Hill, itself a holy site with an ornately decorated temple and Buddha statue overlooking the former capital city and far reaching flatlands. Dominating the city’s centre are the 150 year-old palace grounds of King Mindon and King Thibaw with an adjacent temple and wide surrounding moat. More than 50 people were buried alive during construction. A prison visible below is a reminder that human rights haven’t improved much since. For local travellers the Mahamuni Buddha is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Buddhists in Myanmar. Another worthwhile experience is to catch a performance of the Moustache Brothers, a subversive satire show that takes the considerable risk of poking fun at the military and aspects of Burmese life. Aside from sightseeing, shopping is Mandalay’s other pastime. A fun jewel market, where visitors can watch craftsmen shape gems, is worth a visit. Crafts such as monk’s umbrellas, gold leaf, ornate furniture, and lacquer-ware are made and sold in the city. Motorbike taxis seem a bit overeager in a city where horse and wagon are more common. Better to use the trishaw and fall into Mandalay’s slow rhythms. Bland guesthouses are splashed about the city offering similar variations on the theme of cheap and gritty accommodation.